IT WAS A RAINY SATURDAY IN LONDON WHEN APU JAN LURED FASHION HUNGRY VISITORS INTO FREEMASONS HALL, ONE OF THE MOST NOSTALGIC BUILDINGS IN THE CITY TO DEBUT HIS POETIC SS18 COLLECTION ‘BEFORE LAST PETAL FALLS’.
This article was originally published on The Fashion Conversation.
Since his debut in 2013 at London Fashion Week and ever since well known for his vibrant and innovative knitwear techniques, Apu Jan’s latest collection drew inspiration from historical poems. A homage to O Henry’s “The Last Leaf” and Edgar Allen Poe’s ‘The Fall of the House of Usher” it was also one to the beauty of nature, a reflection of short-lived flowers and their fiery beauty.
The collection that consisted of 33 versatile looks, integrated besides literature and florals also male garments as part of his femme collection. Spotted through mandarin collars and two-parter suits were adapted to a more casual finish. Results were precise and offered plenty of options to choose from for a modern and sophisticated woman. The eye-catcher and the brand’s hallmark included a 3D embroidered two-part suit that echoed the innovative head to toe knitting technique and the unusual self-invented jacquard pattern.
Besides the funny mashup of power suits and dresses, Apu Jan’s SS18 collection was also a juxtaposition of the traditional and oriental elements. From pinstriped trousers to compelling male garments, the collection smoothly transitioned to a modified version of the Qipao. Adding to the Eastern touch, models in bohemian chiffon dresses walked down the runway in a fusion of Mandarin blouses and dresses. What turned out to be the eye candy of the show, was accompanied by a French beret, reminding of a toque worn by chefs. The beret made a repetitive element and came either in a knitted version styled with oversize suit-dresses or casually with pinstripes.
APU JAN’S SS18 COLLECTION WAS A JUXTAPOSITION OF THE TRADITIONAL AND ORIENTAL ELEMENTS.
The primary colours setting the theme of the show were grey, black and white as well as pastel blue and a soft rose petal pink. The playful colour array reminded of the withering of flowers but also of the sparkle of life and mother nature. Besides the implementation of male garments, suit dresses, similarly worn as puffer coats, made their debut on the catwalk.Floral blazers worn loose on forearms transitioning into a scarf complemented the white grandpa collar shirt. The achieved result was an imperfect look, resembling the merge of suit and dress.
Accompanied by a live performance by DJ Question Mark and vocal artist Jordan Pharoah, the show set the audience into a calming Soul and House mood. The final look closed the show with a wine-coloured off-shoulder bohemian dress and a dreamcatcher print. However, the brand’s exclusive 3D embroidery remains one to remember and has grabbed my attention from the beginning. Apu Jan’s unique technique enabled the collection to be real and surreal but at the same time thrilling.